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Pricey Sapporo

By Anne Muscarella

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Published: Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Updated: Saturday, November 14, 2009

Nestled in Newton, the Sapporo Japanese and Korean Restaurant seems to be a place that locals know well. Located right across the street from the Newton T stop in a basement space not easily visible from the street, Sapporo seems the ideal spot for Friday night takeout or a quick meal when getting in late from work. It boasts an extensive and eclectic menu of Japanese and Korean fare, including a wide variety of beverages, from your traditional wines and beers to Japanese beers and sake.

Despite its basement location, Sapporo is a well-lit and welcoming space. The pastel walls are tastefully decorated with Asian relics and the room has ample space between the standard four-person tables. There is no background music playing - particularly noticeable when it isn't crowded - but it creates a peaceful atmosphere.

We were greeted by a friendly host who joked that we could only be seated if we weren't requesting to watch the Sox game because they had no TVs. He had a good sense of humor and seemed to interact with all of his customers this way, not just the regulars whom he greeted by name and chatted with as they waited for their food.

The waitstaff was equally attentive and efficient. They were patient with us as we asked questions about the food and helped us navigate the menu. Perhaps out of eagerness to serve us, however, the staff failed to stagger the delivery of our courses, making the dinner feel rushed. The soup course was brief, our sushi and hot appetizer came out simultaneously, and the entrées arrived before we had made a dent in the appetizers.

The menu was extensive with a variety of Japanese and Vietnamese options. There were many sushi offerings, from the basic cucumber roll to rolls for the more adventurous containing yellow fin, eel, and quail egg. The menu also contained many things you would consider Asian classics with very basic preparation; tempuras, teriyakis, noodles, etc. For the vegetarian, there were options galore, with many dishes featuring tofu and vegetables in spicy sauces.

The Vietnamese options were more unusual. For an entrée, we ordered a Vietnamese dish called "gop dol bi bim bab." It was sizzling rice served in a stone bowl covered with steamed vegetables, sprouts, chicken, and an overeasy fried egg on top. The portion, however, was small and the amount of chicken disappointing. The dish was bland until treated with a generous helping of the hot sauce with a sweet touch that accompanied it. For dessert, we ordered fried green tea ice cream and were once again disappointed in the portion; one small scoop with no attempt at presentation except for a small cherry on top.

Sapporo will not be a favorite of the budget-conscious. While the sushi rolls were reasonably priced, entrees were costly considering the ingredients (upwards of $13 for a simple chicken and rice dish) and the small portions. The lunch specials seemed more affordable with enticing box options that seemed to be a bargain compared to the rest of the menu.

Overall, Sapporo provides an average meal for an above average price. While the menu selection appears broad, the flavor and portions leave the average diner wanting more (literally). For a meal on the go or an Asian craving, Sapporo will suffice. But a diner looking for ambiance, excitement, and value, may want to look elsewhere. C

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