Restaurant Review: Comfort food with a unique twist

My friend's parents were in town for the weekend, and the pressure was on for yours truly to find a place where the four of us could enjoy a nice meal. I had heard many good things about Z Square, located in the heart of Harvard Square, so I decided to give it a shot. I am happy to report that it did not disappoint.

We arrived at the restaurant 20 minutes before our reservation and they were very accommodating, seating us immediately. We were led past the street-level cafe and adorable outdoor patio, down a large staircase to a grand, dark oak bar and dining area. The decor is modern and relaxed, with minimal wall hangings and no clutter. The bar was full but not packed, with customers no doubt drawn by the extensive wine list, original cocktails, and separate bar menu for the after-work crowd. I would describe the menu as "new American," with unique twists on traditional comfort foods such as macaroni and cheese and turkey meat loaf. The service was a little bit slow and not all that attentive, but we were in no rush.

We ordered the little neck clams to start, which came pan-roasted with smoked bacon and scallions in a chipotle-lime broth served creatively with corn bread in the center. They were tasty; but we were served only five, which was awkward to split among a group of four, and with a $14 price tag, they were not the best value.

Because of the diverse offerings of entrees, we made sure to each order something different in order to try as many as possible. My friend and I each ordered fish. I opted for the grilled swordfish kebabs, which were served over a heap of couscous sprinkled with raisins and pine nuts, and topped with a mound of curried onion rings, garnished with some lemony greens. My friend ordered the whole grilled rainbow trout, served with a roasted scallop, delicious new potatoes, green beans, and also sprinkled with raisins. Both fish entrees were fresh and the sides were delicious, but the mix of flavors was a little bit chaotic.

My friend's father ordered the ranch pork chop, served with polenta, grilled peaches, and roasted Brussels sprouts, which was both delicious and beautifully presented on one of the restaurant's large, white plates. His mother made a last-minute switch, ordering the spring ravioli filled with artichoke and fontina cheese, smothered with mushrooms and asparagus in a lemon cream sauce that was a real hit. They tasted fresh and the portions were satisfying, yet not overwhelming.

Craving something sweet, we stayed for dessert. The menu featured a cobbler with seasonal fruit, and we decided on that before we even knew that it would be peach, which only heightened our anticipation. It was served warm with whipped cream, caramel, and four spoons. There was plenty to go around, but it was a little underwhelming, lacking a certain rich, sweet flavor.

As we were leaving, we were drawn into Z Square's street-level cafe by the aroma of the freshly made crepes. They also offer a fabulous lunch menu and some enticing dessert options. I made a mental note to go back and visit the cafe. B