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Spot this hole-in-the-wall for some real Sol

By Alexi Chi

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Published: Thursday, March 29, 2007

Updated: Saturday, November 14, 2009

The term "hole-in-the-wall" is often used to refer to dumpy diners and dive bars with little ambiance and less-than-high-class fare. Though such is not the case with Café Sol Azteca, this small Mexican restaurant is, most literally, a hole in a wall. Rather than detract from the Newton Center café's atmosphere, however, the plain façade and narrow, alley-like stairway add character and make guests feel as if they've discovered a hidden treasure.

Past the entrance, the restaurant's charm becomes more evident: Exposed brick and eclectic ornamentation only add to the traditional Mexican atmosphere, and, in summer months, a small patio allows for outdoor dining. As expected in any good Mexican restaurant, chips and salsa were provided. Diners won't find any Tostitos here, though; the tortilla chips provided were thick and fresh.

At first, the menu is slightly daunting. All the selections are written in Spanish, and Americanized Mexican staples like quesadillas and chimichangas are conspicuously absent. Upon reading the descriptions, however, one finds that the options are superior to anything at the local Taco Bell. Even the appetizers are out of the ordinary: The nopalitos en salsa verde (cactus cooked in green sauce, tortilla strips, and cheese, $6.50) offers an interesting and delectable deviation from the traditional queso dip one might expect.

But the traditional plates are the true stars of the menu. Customers who order these enormous dishes get a plate loaded with beans, rice, cabbage, guacamole, sour cream, meat, and anything else they might possibly consider putting on a tostada. The $15 price tag on these meals may discourage college students, but in this case, it's worth it to fork over the cash. The authentic across-the-border taste and sheer amount of food ensure that customers are getting more than their money's worth with their purchase.

Even though the massive portions will probably weigh down diners and discourage dessert, it would be wise to go for it anyway; the platános con cajeta (fresh banana in rum-caramel sauce, topped with chopped walnuts, $5.50) make for a seemingly healthy (but most likely not) end to a meal. If patrons so choose, they can cap off their supper with a cup of genuine Mexican coffee. Though the price may seem hefty, the authenticity of the food, the warmth of the service, and the proximity to Boston College makes Café Sol Azteca worth a shot. A

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