World Record: Amsterdam

Riding my bike back from class, I took my usual shortcut through Nieuwmarkt - the old market square that runs adjacent to the Red Light District - when I came across a group of tourists wandering aimlessly in the middle of the street. I rang my bell but received only a blank stare from the group of visitors who, in return, received a look of exasperation and a rolling of the eyes as I was forced to go out of my way to avoid hitting them.

No Dutch person would ever mistake me for a local; my American accent and my inability to correctly pronounce the infamous Dutch guttural "g" ensure that; but having now lived here for a month, I cannot be mistaken for a tourist either. I inhabit a strange kind of limbo: an outsider who has gained access to the inside world of the real Amsterdam. My unique position gives me the opportunity to see the two Amsterdams - the outsider's Amsterdam, where life must be one endless party, and the local's Amsterdam, where life is not that much different from the way it is in the rest of the world.

I am not alone in this opinion. To paraphrase one of my British classmates, once you've lived in Amsterdam for a while the mystique disappears and you'll never be able to see the city the way the rest of the world does ever again. While there is truth to his statement, it can be a little misleading. Yes, the mystique of Amsterdam is gone, but the sense of wonder still manages to sneak in every now and again. Every time I ride across the Blauwbrug on a clear day and take in the view of the Amstel and canal houses on either side of me, I can't help but think, "Wow, I actually live here."

The conundrum of the two Amsterdams played in the background for the majority of my first month here; but now that spring is supposedly on its way - a memo to the wind gods would be great - the number of visitors to Amsterdam is increasing. And since my friends and family are among this group, I have been forced to confront the conflicting images of Amsterdam and find a way to bridge the gap between the two. In other words, it's time to play tour guide.

The numerous guidebooks I consulted prior to coming here unanimously stated that Amsterdam could be done in three to four days. This recommendation is likely based on Amsterdam's small size, and yet herein lies my first problem. There are roughly seven attractions within a few feet of my apartment, and in the month that I've been here I've managed to make it to two of them. When you live in what is arguably the museum capital of the world, it is impossible to show someone everything in four days. For help, I turned to one of my roommates who has been here since September. He advised me to tailor my itinerary to each guest; take female visitors shopping on PC Hoofstraat - the Newbury Street of Amsterdam, named after the famous poet - and let your male visitors run loose in the Red Light District (his words, not mine).

Bearing this in mind, as well as the knowledge of the city I've acquired in the past few weeks, I've developed my own must-see list for Amsterdam:

The Van Gogh Museum

Located in Museumplein (Museum Square), the Van Gogh is one of the most famous museums in a city known for its museums. While its neighbor, the Rijksmuseum, is also worth checking out for its collection of Dutch art, including Rembrandt's "Night Watch," the Van Gogh museum is a perfect example of why the Dutch are masters of museology. Rather than simply putting the largest collection of Van Gogh's on display, the museum places his work in a historical context by featuring the art of his predecessors and influences. The most interesting attraction is on the third floor, where you can find letters from Van Gogh to his brother and patron Theo, as well as original sketches often done in the margins of letters or on the back of magazine clippings.

The Anne Frank Huis and the Verzetsmuseum

While the Anne Frank Huis is the more famous of the two, the Verzetsmuseum (the Dutch Resistance museum) is also a must-see if you want to gain a better understanding of Amsterdam's past. The once-secret rooms in the back of Otto Frank's offices contain small traces of the eight people who hid there for two years, as well as display cases featuring relevant passages from Anne's now-famous diary.

The Verzetsmuseum, located in the Plantage, which was, along with the historic Jewish Quarter, once home to the majority of Amsterdam's pre-war Jewish population. The Verzetsmuseum tells the story of the Dutch living in Nazi-occupied Amsterdam using individual stories and interactive displays, including reconstructions of hidden rooms behind half-opened doors.

The Pancake Bakery

This is the Johnny's of Amsterdam where you can find traditional pannekoeken and poffertjes. The Dutch are not exactly known for their food but these pancakes - the former served with anything from bananas and chocolate sauce to apples and bacon, and the latter, tiny puffed up pancakes served with melted butter and sugar - are notable exceptions. Although certainly not the only place in the city for pannekoeken, the Pancake Bakery is located on the famous Prinsengracht Canal and is popular with university students.

Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein

Leidseplein, home to the famous club Paradiso, and Rembrandtplein are where you can find most of Amsterdam's nightlife in addition to seven-euro beers. A general rule of thumb for Amsterdam is that when you see neon lights you know you are in a heavy tourist area, but it's worth going to these two places just for the spectacle of it even if a low-key local bar is more your scene.

Waterlooplein, Bloemenmarkt, and Albert Cuypmarkt

Since Amsterdam is a European city, you should check out one of its markets where you can mingle with locals doing their daily shopping. The flea market in Waterlooplein is home to a wide variety of products from antiques to bike locks, while the Bloemenmarkt is Amsterdam's floating flower market. The Albert Cuypmarkt, located in De Pijp, is a perfect example of the traditional European market where you can buy food, clothing, furniture, and pretty much anything else.